Sleet ´´

19 février 2012

We often tend to think summer is a fabulous time for the foodie: gorgeous produce and a wild variety of fruits and vegetables seem like the stepping stone to new recipes. And yet, summer is also the time our appetite is belittled by heat. Gazpacho will sound more attractive than Gratin, and we often fall back in the tomato-mozzarella pattern.

During winter, on the other hand, in-season ingredients are, one could say, limited. The Root's family and I are best buddies, but it has taken me some time to come this far: an uninviting outlook, endless cooking hours, and earthy flavours may not appeal to le premier venu. Moreover, the colder winter days tend to increase our appetite. We want nice portions, and warm meals. We want comfort food. At the end of the day, one often comes to think that the cosier the food feels, the merrier one will be. Pies, stews, gratins, thick soups, crumbles and warm tarts make up the menu, and leave the guest satisfied. For a few days.

How can a curious cook face these harsh winter months- play with the season's offerings, while offering his invité a meal that is both repleting and inventive?

But for now - let's get cooking. Taste and smell will make my point better than words.

Starts off fresh - Fennel, Artichoke & Celery | inspired by Jamie Magazine

Gets into the comfort line - Leftover Mustard Rabbit Ragu with tagliatelle

Finishes off delicately - Panna Cotta with warm pear compote

Fennel, Artichoke & Celery

Starter for 4

Ingredients: 1 fennel bulb, very finely sliced - 4 celery stalks, very finely sliced in diagonal - 1 lemon - one small jar of artichokes, drained and finely sliced - 1 garlic clove, very finely chopped - olive oil - 1/2 teaspoon pink peppercorns, lightly grinded - salt and pepper

¨Place the fennel and celery in a bowl, and grate over some 1/2 lemon zest. Add the artichokes, the garlic.

¨Add the juice of the lemon, olive oil and peppercorns. Season well. Set aside until ready to serve.

Leftover Mustard Rabbit Ragù with tagliatelle

Main for 4

Ingredients: the leftovers of approx. 1/2 rabbit (I had made one with mustard, and it worked out perfectly. As a subsititute, you can add a big teaspoon of mustard to the sauce), picked - 1 red onion, finely chopped - 1 big carrot, halved lengthways, halved again, and chopped - 1 teaspoon rosemary leaves - 1/2 teaspoon ground thyme - 2 bay leaves - a small glass of white wine - a glass of chicken stock - 400 g tagliatelle - 1/2 a small bunch of parsley, finely chopped - 3 handfuls of freshly grated parmesan - olive oil - salt & pepper

¨Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pot. Add the onion, and let it cook for 2 minutes on a medium heat, stirring often. Add the chopped carrots and herbs. Leave it to cook for 2 more minutes.

¨Add the rabbit leftovers and pour over the white wine. Stir and bring to the boil. Add the stock and lower the heat. Season. Cover, and simmer for +/- 15 minutes, until ready to serve.

¨In the meantime, bring water to the boil, and cook your pasta al'dente. Reserve a small cup of the cooking water.

¨When ready, add a small handful of parmesan to the sauce. Have a taste, adjust the seasoning. Stir, and add the pasta. Divide into plates, sprinkle over the parsley, and some extra parmesan.

Panna Cotta with warm pear compote

Dessert for 4-6

Ingredients for the panna cotta :40 cl cooking cream - 1 vanilla pod - 30g icing sugar - 2 gelatin leaves

Ingredients for the compote: 2 ripe pears - 1 cinnamon stick - 30g cane sugar - 2 cloves - 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger - a squeeze of lemon juice

¨Place the gelatin leaves and a spoon of water in a small bowl.

¨Pour the cream in a small pan. Slice the vanilla pod, scrape out the grains and add to the cream. Add the sugar. Bring to the boil on a medium heat. Take-off the heat and whisk in the drained gelatin leaves. Stir well, and divide into small serving cups.

¨Peel and core the pars. Quarter them. Bring two table-spoonfuls of watter to the heat. Add the pears, sugar and spices, and the squeeze of lemon juice. Cover and leave to cook on a low heat until the pears are soft. With a hand-mixer, reduce the fruits in a thick purée. Adjust the sweetness.